MOUNTAIN RESTAURANTS
With so many mountain restaurants in the Chamonix Valley it is impossible to come up with a definitive list. Nevertheless we have come up with as many as possible and given our opinion based on experiences we have enjoyed (or otherwise). We have however left out the large 'cafeteria' restaurants which are and do exactly what you expect and no more.
It is only our opinion an if you have other thoughts and please feel free to email us your reviews and we will post as many as we can on this page for others to reference.
Editors Choice
Les Vieilles Luge - Les Houches (*****)
Four mountain restaurants in the Chamonix Valley are in our opinion are worthy ofparticular note, two on the Grands Montets and these are the Tannerie and the Refuge, and two in Les Houches, La Taniere and the Les Veilles Luges. We love all four but in the end it was a close run thing between Les Veilles Luge and the Refuge for which Chamonix mountain restaurant which we liked best and just on ambiance, charm and great food, Les Vielles Luge, a 250 year old shepherds farmhouse, just gets it.
Run by Claude and Julia who have personally created the perfect atmosphere for that lazy lunch either in the sunshine or inside this seductive farmhouse with its old artefacts and old wood decor. The menus are perfect for skiing, old favourites from yesteryear in France. In terms of the menu, for those of you who have read our Chamonix restaurants guide will note that we prefer restaurants that have a more limited menu and as a consequence serve fresh ingredients as a consequence and Les Veilles Luge is sensibly limited to ensure the ingredients are freshly prepared and served to a high standard. Typically this means the menu board will have four of five choices (including a vegetarian option) rather than a long list, but whatever you choose it will taste devine. From our experience, and it is the place we always go to with our friends, the food is always simple, traditional, beautifully presented, and tastes superb. The local speciality is the façon, a potato dish that is painstakingly prepared using a traditional press and you remember each time you return, year on year, once you have enjoyed it the once.
Tucked away in the woods, the first task however is to locate the carefully concealed path, although a recently erected sign helps consideerablt. Just off the Aillouds piste, one, despite the large sign, has to be attentive not to miss the entrance in the woods. As you pass the Hors Piste, continue either down the red run in front of you, or the blue to the left. Eventually they will both again meet. As they join, look to the left hard corner and you should see the sign and the pathway.As you progress down the path his delightful little shepherd's farmhouse will come into view, and the number of visitors will probably indicate that it is going to be well worth the effort locating it.
A two course menu (generally more than enough) will cost typically around €22 - €26 plus wine (the latter typically €20 - €35 a bottle, alternatively choose the carafe / house wine). Tel: 00 33 (0)6 84 42 37 00
Please note: Being a very popular and well renowned restaurant, a reservation is strongly recommended to avoid disappointment particular at weekends and during high season weeks.
Grands Montets - Argentiere
Le Refuge (*****)
The refuge can only be accessed by a difficult red, black, off-piste, or a short walk (snow-shoes recommended) from the Grands Montets mid-station. Either way, the effot is worth it. The mountain restaurant's ambiance is unique - warm, rugged and cosy - all rolled into one! The food is traditional and rustic too and simply outstanding. How such simple cooking can taste so good is hard to believe, but it does. The Refuge is farmhouse cooking in a way that only the French could pull off with such great flavours and style.
Perched overlooking Argentiere below, it is a restaurant retreat that has everything and any visitor to Chamonix should definitely consider.
A two course menu will cost typically around €25 - €28 plus wine (the latter typically €18 - €30 a bottle). Tel: 00 33 (0)4 50 53 53 53
Creamery (*****)
Difficult to find but worth the effort. I guess this says it all about great mountain restaurants, their location makes that little bit special to find, and make the experience even better as a consequence. The Creamery is on the right hand side through the trees of the last stretch back to the bottom of the Grands Montets cable car station and car park. Their speciality is a Croute and when we describe it to you, you may not be too convinced, but trust on this one, clients to date have been far from disappointed. Basically a croute is bread, that is topped with cheese, and / or a sauce (e.g. mushroom) and then baked in the oven. In most places it can be quite nice, but here it is an art form! Worth however reserving a table as this place really is very popular! Just leave an extra 15 minutes to find it or ask for one of us to provide a ski orienteering morning!
A two course menu will cost typically around €20 - €26 plus wine (the latter typically €16 - 24 for a bottle). 00 33 (0)4 50 54 07 52
BREVENT
Le Panoramic (****)
Recommended for its stunning location and views. The food is good, but the location, on the edge of the mountain, over looking the valley and across at Mont Blanc, is definitely included in the price. The food is good therefore, if a little pricey, but if you want that special location, and its a warm day, it is a restaurant you may want to visit and enjoy Chamonix’s stunning scenery over dinner and a fine glass of wine.
Located at the very top of the Brevent cable car, as you step out you will see the terrace below you so it is easy to find. Being at 2,525m, a head for heights and warm clothing are often advisable, although on warm spring days it isn’t unusual to see locals and the Paris chic crowd topping up their sun tans whilst socialising over lunch.
A two course menu will cost typically around €20 - €26 plus wine (the latter typically €16 - 24 for a bottle). 00 33 (0)4 50 54 07 52
Les Houches
La Taniere - Les Houches (****)
It always seems to be the case, that the great mountain restaurants are always the ones that you have to search out, and La Taniere is yet another example. This time situated on the other side of the mountain, heading towards the Crozet Chairlift on the blue run, before you get to the final schuss, take the right and down through the trees, taking the Plan du Croz piste.
A traditional chalet, this is where you will find the locals and the ski instructors sat with their groups, appreciating one of the valleys great little secrets. Whilst it is not a place the masses will ski by, its reputation means that you will still need to book to guarantee a table. And with only eight tables inside, on colder days a reservation is strongly recommended. The food is quite exceptional, whether you are tasting the Plat du Jour (dish of the day - our recommendation) or an omellette (the word doesn’t do theirs justice).
A two course menu will cost typically around €15 - €25 plus wine (the latter typically €20 - €30 a bottle. Again, here, why not try the house wine, perfectly quoffable). Tel: 00 33 (0)4 50 93 42 57
Hors Piste - Les Houches (***)
A modern chalet restaurant with a great terrace and magnificent views of the Mont Blanc massif and valley below. With the Hors Piste it can be easily found, situated at the top of the Maison Neuve chairlift, and the bottom of the Kandahar chair.
The food here is of a very good quality, if a little high on the price side in our view for what it is. Nevertheless, the pasta dishes for example are nicely prepared, presented, and taste great and are unlikely to disappoint. Being so accessible, it can of course be quite popular, and even when it isn’t, we have found the service to be somewhat slow on the occasions we have frequented it. Hopefully after the comments from locals, this year they will get this aspect sorted as the location is great, and the food, after the two above and the Tannery at the Grands Montet, is some of the best found on the mountains in the Chamonix Valley
A two course menu will cost typically around €23 - €28 plus wine (the latter typically €22 - €40 a bottle). Tel: 00 33 (0)4 50 53 53 53
Le Terrain - Les Houches (**)
Literally just under the Hors piste, and clearly been there many years before. You’ll probably love or hate this old shepherds huts quirkiness and the service that goes with it. Personally, we really like it as the ambience is great, the decor for example inside is ‘very real’ savoyard, the food likewise, and the quirkiness of drinking wine out of a simple plastic cup really does grow on you after the initial surprise. We think it is well worth a visit, but as we have stated already, whether you approve or don’t will be down to personal preferences;
A two course menu will cost typically around €18 - €24 plus wine (the latter typically €12 for a carafe).
Courant d’Air - Les Houches (**)
Found at the bottom of the Col de Voza blue and red runs, the Courant d’Air is a beautiful old farmhouse that feels really quite snug inside. The entrecote’s (sirloin steak) are always a sound bet, served with frites and a salad, the steak is generous enough to probably feed four! All in all the food is good and wholesome rather than outstanding, but for us there is something lovely about this place, maybe it’s the Frenchness, or just the beautiful old farmhouse, we’re not quite sure. The menu is sensible and prepared to order, and dishes include steak hache (burger), croute, and the steaks. Worth paying a visit to in our opinion but on a cold day, you may need to get there early to secure a table.
A two course menu will cost typically around €18 - €24 plus wine (the latter typically €18 - €26 for a bottle). Tel: 00 33 (0)4 50 54 44 04 (Mob: 00 33 (0)6 61 42 53 10)
Le Cha - Les Houches (*)
A small self-service restaurant that is situated at the bottom of the blue Cha run. Whilst the food is at best average, and ‘fast food’, the location on a sunny day seems to be a real sun trap and great for a light snack, beer, or hot wine! In terms of the food, it is very much limited to a simple plat du jour, which will be something like a lasagna, and the normal fast food of burger, sausages, and chips. Not one we would have on our list for culinary delights, but that said, because of its sunny position we seem to frequent quite often.
A two course menu will cost typically around €18 - €24 plus wine (the latter typically €18 for a bottle). Tel: 00 33 (0)4 50 54 30 45